Utqiagvik (Barrow), Alaska
People flock to Alaska for many things— perhaps to go hunting, fishing, hiking, or cruising. However, while few venture to the top of this mighty state, those that do are heavily rewarded in stunning sites and a new perspective on our great Earth.
For those unaware, above the 71st latitude (🥶), sits the bustling city of 5,000— the northernmost in America— of Utqiagvik (formerly titled and still frequently called Barrow), Alaska.
The Journey:
Your best bet flight wise is the daily flight in on Alaska Airlines from Anchorage. Fares on this flight are not cheap— I was booking last minute in August, 2021, and the economy rates for the 90 minute flight were pushing $1,000.
Therefore, I highly recommend using points. I used 9,000 British Airways Executive Club points (transferred in from American Express Membership Rewards) and $5.60 each way. You could also use other OneWorld Alliance (such as American Airlines or Japan Airlines) points or Alaska Airlines own points to book this route. If you do not have any credit card points you could sign up for an airline credit card that will give you points in a sign up bonus (and from general spend) or purchase American Airlines / Alaska Airlines points during their frequent sales.
I paid an extra $15 dollars in order to get an extra legroom seat which also comes with early boarding. There is often not enough room for all the carryon bags, and the airline is constantly leaving checked bags behind in Anchorage. That’s why it’s crucial to board early and secure space for your stuff!
Where to Stay:
There’s one large hotel in town— the place where practically all tourists stay— called the Top of the World Hotel. They send a van to pick up guests from each flight into Utqiagvik, so once you land, just go outside, and someone will be there shortly.
Prepare for a bit of a peculiar arrival at the hotel. They’ll have you sign a paper swearing you won’t drink any alcohol while there. I don’t drink and certainly had no desire to start doing so over my stay, so I had no qualms signing. It’s just something to be aware of.
Rooms are comfortable— akin to a Hampton Inn. Opt for a Deluxe Room which faces the Arctic Ocean. Unfortunately, none were available over my nights, so I had a room facing the road making for lots of ATV noise at night.
The hotel is located next to the famous Whale Bone Arch and is a perfect place to take a plunge into the Arctic Ocean.
Me posing at the arch, proud of having made it to the top of the world!
What to do there:
The primary draw for visiting Utqiagvik is the eternal day during the summer. It’s simply amazing to go out for a walk at 3 am along the beach. I think that with Starlink satellite internet soon arriving there (something many residents expressed great excitement about), the city should consider marketing itself to entrepreneurs and creatives who want to work at all hours of the day.
Usually, the hotel offers tours of the surrounding area, but they were suspended due to the pandemic. Therefore, a fellow tourist I met and I would order cabs to explore the surrounding areas. The cabs cost $50 per hour and are readily available.
We went near Point Barrow (the northernmost tip of the nation), visited the heritage center, were taken aback by the prices in the grocery stores, got to see people bringing in their hunting trophies, and saw the cellars where whale meat is stored. The Iñupiat people hunt Bowhead whales in the fall and spring and belugas in other months. Locals requested I not post pictures of the hunted beluga whales, so out of respect to their wishes, I have not included them here. Below are some pictures of what there’s to see in Barrow with captions.
On Food:
While expensive (expect to pay around $25-$35 for an entree at the restaurant), the food is delicious. My new friend and I ordered in from the Asian restaurant Sam & Lee’s one night, where I had an excellent beef dish. For some reason my credit card got declined, so I paid the delivery driver cash when he got to the hotel. Just make sure to have some cash in case the same thing happens to you. For the other meals, I ate pancakes, country fried steak, and a burger at the hotel’s restaurant.
A Place for Contemplation:
Realistically, you can see most of Utqiagvik’s sites with a walk into town to see the Heritage Center, grocery store, and then a few hours in a taxi ride to be taken into some of the parts outside. Therefore, I recommend spending most of your time in a pensive state.
For me, sitting on the beach staring at the horizon was a very special experience. I don’t know how to describe it other than the world felt “closed in.” Also, interacting with residents was another great pleasure.
The lady sitting next to me on the plane was a school teacher from North Carolina who had been living up in the Arctic for years. Hearing her story and how she pays $1,000 (!!!) a month for internet and phone service for her and her daughter was pretty jarring for me. I was also fascinated by how diverse a community this place was. Shopkeepers were Samoan; restauranteurs Korean, Japanese, and Mexican; grocery store workers Filipino, and taxi drivers Thai. I simply loved it.
I thoroughly enjoyed speaking with Iñupiat people, especially a lady and her mother at the airport. She was from a small village in the North Slope (the borough— county— in Alaska Utqiagvik is the capital of) serving as a teacher, mother, and firefighter. She was taking her mother down to Anchorage for medical care, which required a flight to Utqiagvik, an overnight there, and then the flight down to Anchorage.
Conclusion:
So yes, Utqiagvik is not going to become New York in terms of the number of tourists it gets, but honestly, I believe that’s a positive. Venturing up to this corner of the nation will deliver you a glimpse into a special American community where the world’s cultures blend harmoniously in a unique setting.