Mountainous Memories: My Time in The Other Georgia
I recently spent a week in the beautiful Caucasus country of Georgia. Here are 2 things to see, eat, and do in this enchanting land.
See:
Of course, exploring the downtown of the nation’s charming capital, Tbilisi, is a worthwhile endeavor (especially by the river). However, I always enjoy making some day trips, and here are two I’d implore you to consider.
1. David Gareja Monastery:
Located in a valley on the Azeri border — 2 hours from Tbilisi— the David Gareja Monastery is one of the most unique structures I’ve ever seen. It’s a fortress and monastery carved into the side of a hill. The drive to the monastery is also a site in and of itself. You’ll drive through some stunningly vast steppes that are certain to act as some cosmic insignificance therapy.
2. Stalin’s Birthplace, Gori:
While I certainly didn’t go to pay my respects, this is one of the most intriguing — if eerie — sites I’ve visited in all my travels. The town of Gori can be reached by a 2-hour ride from Tbilisi. The guided tour will first show you the humble home in which Stalin was born before showing you the luxurious train the Marxist man was ferried around in. Then, you’re free to explore the rather impressive museum filled with gifts Stalin received during his reign and diplomatic gifts given to Georgia. My favorite piece here was a colorful Turkmen rug featuring Stalin’s portrait surrounded by many Soviet symbols.
Do:
Hiking and Snow Watching in Kazbegi:
My favorite part of Georgia was going up to the mountain town of Kazbegi, right by the Russian border. I stayed at the mountain lodge called the Rooms Hotel, which I’d highly recommend. It was a lovely place to enjoy the view and eat delectable Georgian stews. People go up there to hike in the summer months, but I had the delightful surprise of an early-May snowstorm. Frankly, it was very welcome because it was so cozy to sit in my room sipping tea and watching the snowfall. I highly recommend visiting Kazbegi but advise you to plan for the possibility that you could be snowed in for a night or two.
2. Get a bank account:
While, at first glance, opening a bank account on vacation might not sound like the sexiest thing, doing so was one of the highlights of my trip. First, with an account, you get excellent cash and digital exchange rates from Euros and US Dollars to Georgian Laris. Next, you can get Mastercard + Visa debit cards (I got mine in 1 day) to spend your money inside the country without worrying about manipulated exchange rates.
Also, if you’re looking to diversify your assets, Georgian bank accounts can be a great option to save currencies like US Dollars and Euros directly and also get attractive yields on your currency via term deposits. I opened an account at a TBC Bank branch in Tbilisi in under an hour as a US citizen, which is truly remarkable considering that burdensome regulation on US citizens makes most banks worldwide turn them away.
Eat:
1. Khinkali:
These are large dumplings stuffed with various types of meat or vegetables. They are closed at the top by a large mass of dough called kudi. The kudi are not eaten but collected on your plate to show off how many you’ve eaten. Eating Khinkali with a fork and knife is a cardinal sin— you should first bite into the dough and suck out the juices before eating the rest. My favorite ones were stuffed with lamb.
2. Khachapuri:
I found the cheese and bread in Georgia to both be delectable, so I especially enjoyed Khachapuri since it’s a cheese-stuffed bread. One can think of it as a baked cheese sandwich in the shape of a pizza. They are often eaten before main dishes and sometimes alongside them. However, be warned that the portions are usually quite large. I could never finish an entire one alone, but I can’t say I hated having leftovers.
Overall, Georgia is simply a lovely place to spend some time. Considering Georgia offers an entire year of visa-free travel for many western citizens and excellent low-tax freelancing visas, it is a great place to go for an extended period of time. I was so impressed by the range of activities and natural wonders in such a small nation. I will almost certainly be back soon, as there’s much I’d still like to explore there, including the Black Sea city of Batumi.
Georgia is UN Country #58 for me.